RV Winter Preparation

You’ve had a great year in your RV and now it’s time to store it for winter and go through a RV Winter Preparation. Follow the guide below to properly winterize and prepare your RV for long or short term storage.
Use Freeze Ban Antifreeze for the winterization of your RV. It is safe for fresh water plumbing.
Step-by-Step Guide to Winterizing Your RV.
The following are general suggestion. Read your owner’s manual for winterization methods specific to your RV. Note: For winterizing ice maker, dishwasher and washing machine, please see appliance manual or contact RV service center.

1.  Disconnect the outside water source. DO NOT DRAIN THE WATER HEATER until after you have filled your pipes with antifreeze.

2. Bypass your water heater. Bypassing the water heater can save you money by not having to fill the water heater with antifreeze, saving as much as 6 to 8 gallons of antifreeze. Some RVs come with a by-pass system pre-installed but many do not. We offer many Bypass Kits.

Before you start:

Make sure to turn off all power to the water heater (the electric water heaters usually have their own power on-off switch).

• Disconnect the water supply.
• Make sure the water heater gas pilot is NOT lit

Make sure your water heater remains full of water.

• If you need to install a by-pass system, disconnect hot and cold lines going into and out of the water heater.
• Connect by-pass. Be sure to use 3 to 5 turns of Teflon tape when attaching each connection.
• Close off hot and cold lines going into and out of the water heater.
• Open the by-pass

3. Open the petcock to drain as much water from your pipes as possible. Open the water taps and flush the toilet to drain any remaining water from the system.

4. After draining as much water as possible, it is recommended a Blow Out Plug [165230, 165231, 165232] be attached to the Water Intake Fitting. Apply air pressure from an oilless air compressor to drain the remaining water. Although blowing out the remaining water is not required, the remaining water will dilute your antifreeze. Close all faucets and petcock when complete.
5. You can add antifreeze either from the inside using the Pump Converter Winterizing Kit or from the outside using a hand pump. Be sure to check your progress by opening up on faucet at a time, starting from the highest and working to the lowest point in the fresh water system. Begin with the kitchen faucet. Open the HOT side of the kitchen faucet ONLY. Pump antifreeze until flow from the faucet becomes very pink. This will indicate that all water has been flushed from your system. Close faucet. Repeat on COLD side. Continue to the next lower fixture. This is normally the bathroom sink, then the shower and toilet and finally the outdoor shower.

6. Clean the exterior of your RV especially the roof.

7. Cover your RV with a breathable cover to reduce cracks and leaks during the freezing and thawing of winter weather. Be sure to make the cover snug on your RV so there is no flapping. Cover your wheels with wheel covers to preserve the life of your tires.

8. Pour at least 2 pints of antifreeze into all sink and shower drains. The ice maker, washing machine and external shower will also need to be winterized. Look for this information in you appliance manuals.

9. Open drain plug/valve on water heater and leave open.

10. Finally, leave antifreeze in lines until spring. Do not drain.

Also remember to…

• Remove any food that can spoil from your RV
• Clean storage areas, oven, range, refrigerator and areas around dinette.
• Examine seals around exterior doors and windows. Caulk if necessary.
• Check the roof for small leaks or other damage. Make repairs if necessary.
• Check plumbing vents, roof vent, and air condition shroud.
• Leave your hot water heater plug/valve open during the winter months.
• Disconnect your 120 volt line cord and store away.
• Clean and store your sewer hoses.
• Replace bumper caps.
• Park with emergency brake on and use wheel chocks.
• Stabilize your RV. Make sure it does not rock when you walk inside it.
• Keep RV out of direct sunlight if possible.
• Now is a good time to wash and wax.
• Clean the awning with RV Awning Cleaner. Do not use a dish detergent. They contain de-greasers which can cause your awning to dry out and crack.

RV Winter Preparation

When purchasing exterior shutters, the chart below is an excellent guide for selecting the proper width and length.

Washing to Minimize Scratching

Wash the polycarbonate skylight dome with a mild soap or detergent (such as 409 cleaner) and lukewarm water, using a clean sponge or a soft cloth. Rinse well with clean water. Dry thoroughly with a chamois or moist cellulose sponge to prevent water spots. Do not scrub or use brushes or abrasives on polycarbonate skylights; the UV coating is not mar resistant. Also do not use butyl cellosolve in direct sunlight.

Fresh paint splashes, grease and smeared glazing compounds can be removed easily before drying by rubbing lightly with a good grade of naphtha or isopropyl alcohol. Follow the alcohol rub with a mild detergent wash with warm water and end with a thorough rinsing with clean water.

Minimize Hairline Scratches

Scratches and minor abrasions can be minimized by using a mild automobile polish. Three such products that tend to polish and fill scratches are Johnson Paste Wax, Novus Plastic Polish #1 and #2, and Mirror Glaze plastic polish (MG M10). It is suggested that a test be made on a sample area with the product selected and that the manufacturer’s instructions are followed.

Don’ts – Very Important

• DON’T use abrasive or highly alkaline cleaners on the polycarbonate.
• DON’T scrape the polycarbonate with squeeges, razor blades or other sharp instruments.
• DON’T ever use benzene, gasoline, acetone or carbon tetrachloride on polycarbonate.
• DON’T clean polycarbonate in hot sun or on very hot days.

Compatible Cleaners For Polycarbonate Plastic

The following agents have been found to be compatible with polycarbonate. Manufacturer’s instructions should be followed: Formula 409™, Top Job™, VM & P Grade Naphtha Joy™, Windex w/Amonia D™ and Palmolive Liquid™.

Vinyl shutters are usually maintenance free, but they will become dirty over time. Generally vinyl shutters can be cleaned satisfactorily with the use of any ordinary garden hose. If this does not do the job, we suggest the following:

1. With a garden hose and a soft bristle brush wash the shutters gently.
2.Where soil is of a stubborn nature, the following cleaning solution works well:

• 1/3 cup detergent (Tide for example)
• 2/3 cup Tri-sodium (Soilax for example)
• 4 quarts of water

In certain geographical areas where mildew may be a problem, substitute one quart of 5% sodium hydrochloride (Clorox for example) for one quart of water in the formula above.

If your shutters are extremely dirty, it is recommended that you start washing from the top and work down to the bottom. Apply cleaning solution and let stand for several minutes to allow the dirt to loosen. The shutters and your siding should be rinsed thoroughly to avoid staining and/or streaking.

Tools Needed: Putty knife or wide slot screwdriver, pliers, razor knife.
Supplies Needed: Lacquer thinner, caulk (acrylic, butyl, or latex) (silicone sealants are not recommended). Vinyl glazing bead and new glass.

1. Remove screen if necessary. Pull up on the tabs at the bottom of screen if they are present. If no tabs are there, press the spring loaded top rail of the screen up into its channel. This will raise the screen assembly enough to free the bottom. Push the bottom outward to remove.

2. Unsnap glazing beads by pressing between the frame and glazing bead with a putty knife or slot screwdriver. Pry under the glazing beads and run the putty knife/screwdriver the length of the glazing bead. Pull out the glazing bead with pliers to free it from the old caulk. Remove side beads first as they would interfere with removal of top and bottom beads.

3. Carefully remove glass by cutting the glazing caulk with a razor knife from the inside. Do not reach through broken glass. This may require 4 to 5 passes with the knife.

4. Scrape old caulk off frame with a putty knife/slot screwdriver.

5. Prep the glazing surface. Remove any remaining residue with several applications of laquer thinner and continue scraping.

6. Apply a continuous 1/8" diameter bead of caulk around the perimeter of the glass opening.

7. Center the new glass in the opening, then press the glass firmly in place, applying pressure along the perimeter. Do not apply pressure to center of the glass as it could break.

8. Replace the glazing beads. Snap in the full length pieces at the top and bottom first and the foreshortened pieces at the sides second. (Note: Some glazing bead types may need to be mitered on the corners.)

The black material enclosing the base of a mobile home is known by several names: bottom board, belly board or paper, black board, etc. Typically, the material used is asphalt-impregnated fiberboard or fiberglass, cloth or heavy tar paper and woven polyethylene. All serve the same purpose:

• Prevent moisture infiltration
• Insulate the subfloor
• Keeps out vermin and insects

Any tear or hole should be repaired immediately.

Assess the Damage
Before repairing, try to figure out what caused the damage. If moisture buildup caused the tear, locate and repair the source of the leak. Replace damaged insulation and flooring. If pests caused the problem, remove them and their nests.

Patching Holes
Small holes can be easily patched with a 2" bottom board tape. To repair larger holes you may need to cut out the damaged area and patch using a bottom board repair kit. The repair kit will have woven polyethylene to patch the hole and self adhesive polyethylene to hold the patch in place.

Repairing Rips and Large Damaged Areas
In some cases you may have to cut out the damaged bottom board. Remove the damaged area back to the center of the nearest floor joist on each side of the cut out. Replace with a self-adhesive bottom board large enough to cover the entire area. You can also overlay large areas with mutiple tears and holes using this product.

Finally, anytime you cut the bottom board to repair leaks, etc., patch the area as soon as it has dried out to prevent further damage.

Before you attempt to remove a ceiling stain, identify and repair the cause. Stains caused by roof leaks or build up of condensation will reappear until the problem is corrected.

Lighter stains can sometimes be removed with undiluted bleach, be sure to protect carpet, drapes, furniture and yourself before trying this remedy. Wear rubber gloves and protective eye wear (extremely important if you are working on an overhead problem area). Use a rag or sponge and dab the area with bleach until the stain has disappeared.

Very small, light stains can often be covered up with white shoe polish or chalk. For small nicks and dents in a textured celing, apply white caulk and contour to match the texture. Larger textured areas will require a ceiling patch product such as Homax Popcorn Ceiling Patch.

Severely discolored areas will require sealing and painting. Ceilings with smoke damage will also require sealing. Seal with a stain blocker such as Kilz (may take 2 coats), before reapplying paint or texture.